The use and introduction of climbing rope

As we all know, UIAA certification DYNAMIC power cord mainly has two indicators, the first impact (IMPACTFORCE) and UIAA drop count (UIAAFALLS), but most domestic climbers do not understand that there are three indicators is also the key to choose a climbing rope. These three indicators are: anti-cut index, wear index, and water resistance.

According to the statistics of domestic climbers, more than 90% of the climbing ropes are still far from the UIAAFALLS life expectancy. Therefore, when choosing a climbing rope, wear resistance and waterproofness must be taken into consideration.

Outdoor classroom: use and introduction of climbing rope

Cut-proof index

Sharp angles have fatal consequences for transverse cutting of the rope. The rope can be easily cut with a sharp object when the rope is loaded. In UIAA's standard cut-proof test, a weight of 80 kg was required to fall from a height of 5 meters, and the rope was cut on the edge of a sharp object with a lateral radius of 5 mm. In the first such experiment, the rope could not be damaged. In order to pass the cut-proof index test. Different brands of climbing rope cut-off index are very different, such as Austria's EDEIWEISS rope can withstand up to 6-7 times the same type of testing, and some models of EDELWEISS climbing rope can even withstand the sharp edge cutting test radius 0.75MM, and in the same Most of the other climbing ropes were cut off.

Wear index

With a weight of 10 kilograms tied to a climbing rope and rubbing longitudinally on a rotating sand wheel, the external net of the rope was damaged (the rope is often exposed by climbers), and the time the rope was worn directly reflected the rope. Longitudinal wear resistance. In general, mountaineering ropes with the PERDUR logo are more than 30% longer than other ropes in their tests.

Waterproof

Waterproof rope is what we often say dry rope, this type of rope outside the net is generally treated with TEFLON waterproof. The rope will lose more than 20% strength when soaked in water. Non-waterproof ropes in mountaineering will be greatly reduced in strength after being wetted by snow, which is very dangerous.

Practice has proved that dry rope has the following obvious advantages:

(1) Prevent the water from entering the inner core, and the outer net will soon dry out when soaked in water.

(2) The weight change after flooding is small.

(3) After the flooding, it will rarely be frozen.

(4) Longer service life.

In addition, UIAA1's power rope diameter is generally from 9.9-11MM, these ropes are also very different in use. In general, 11MM or 10.5MM ropes are used for BIGWALL or rock climbing, and 10MM or 9.9MM ropes are lighter in weight and are mostly used for climbing. For climbing, it is best to use a dry rope for BIGWALL or ice climbing.

The details of the use of climbing ropes can be found in the manufacturers' manuals or CATALOG. In short, not necessarily the most expensive is the best, only the match with your climbing purpose is the best choice for you.

Bundle climbing rope

This is a method of tying ropes into two groups, one on the left and the other, and without knots. When dividing the rope, the length of one time is preferably equal to the maximum distance between both hands. If it is too short, the tied rope may become too big. When binding, if one hand cannot handle it, it can be placed on your wrist.